Introducing Ahmedabad (Amdavad)
Ahmedabad (also called Amdavad) is Gujarat’s major city, and a startling mini-metropolis. Straddling the Sabarmati River, it’s one half old-world charm, and the other half new-world noise. Yet it’s also remarkably cosmopolitan, with a rich Muslim history, a tangled, beautifully restored old city, stunning museums, fine restaurants and fabulous night markets. Many travellers stop off briefly on route to Rajasthan or Mumbai, sneaking in a visit to Sabarmati Ashram (Gandhi’s former headquarters). However, those able to swallow the smog will discover a pulsating Indian city, with a media that preaches tolerance. Ahmedabad is a sky-scraping step-off point to the rest of Gujarat.
Each January, the city hosts Makar Sakranti, an international kite festival that’s well worth the stiff neck.
Getting there & away
Land
Bus
Private buses from the north drop you at Naroda Rd, about 7km northwest of the city centre – an autorickshaw will complete the journey for around Rs 50.
Leaving from the bus stand near Rani Sipri’s Mosque, State Transport Corporation (STC; 25463360) buses go to Vadodara (Rs 60, two hours, every 10 minutes), as well as hourly to Jamnagar (Rs 115, seven hours), Junagadh (Rs 120, eight hours), Bhavnagar (Rs 90, four hours) and Rajkot (Rs 95, 4½ hours).
If you’re travelling long distances, private buses are quicker; some offices are east of the STC bus stand. Punjab Travels (9am-9pm); Embassy Market (26589200; off Ashram Rd); Shefali Shopping Centre (26579999; Pritamnagar Rd) offers a number of intercity services, including to Ajmer (ordinary/sleeper Rs 200/320, 11 hours), Aurangabad (ordinary/sleeper Rs 320/420, 16½ hours), Jaipur (ordinary/sleeper Rs 250/360, 14½ hours), Jodhpur (Rs 210, 11 hours) and Udaipur (ordinary/sleeper Rs 130/220, seven hours).
New Limda Travels (Map p719; 26579379; 5 Shroff Chambers) is a recommended company (the sign is in Gujarati), with buses travelling to Palitana (Rs 130, 4½ hours), Bhavnagar (Rs 120, four hours) and Mumbai (ordinary/sleeper/deluxe Rs 350/500/700, 24 hours). Bonny Travels (Map p719; 26579265; Pritamnagar Rd; 6am-11pm) serves Jamnagar (Rs 220, six hours) and Rajkot (Rs 160, four hours) several times daily.
Train
There’s a computerised booking office (135; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) to the left as you exit Ahmedabad train station. Window 6 handles the foreign-tourist quota, and you could try booking with your credit card at Window 7.
Air
Two recommended booking agents are Parshwanath Travels (27544142; parshtrvl@wilnetonline.net; Ashram Rd; 10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) and Express Travels (Map p719; 26588602; express@wilnetonline.net; 11am-6.30pm Mon-Sat), around the corner from Gujarat Tourism. Both places accept major credit cards.
Air India (26585382; Premchand House, Ashram Rd), near the High Court building, has flights to New York (US$740) and Chicago (US$850) via Mumbai and London (£278).
Indian Airlines (26585622, airport office 22867237; Relief Rd; 10am-5pm) is near the Nehru Bridge. It flies to Sharjah (Rs 14, 100), Kuwait (Rs 19, 225) and Muscat (Rs 14, 095).
Singapore Airlines (30012840), off CG Rd, flies to/from Singapore.
Jet Airways (27543304; Ashram Rd; 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) flies regularly to Mumbai (US$95 to US$140; daily connections to Goa) and Delhi (US$100 to US$190).
Money & costs
Money
For changing travellers cheques and currency, try the following:Bank of Baroda (27541093; Ashram Rd) Gives cash advances on Visa cards.
Green Channel Travel Services (26560489; 5/6 Sun Complex, CG Rd; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Amex representatives.
State Bank of India (25506800) Near Lal Darwaja (the local bus stand).
Wall Street Finances (26426682; CG Rd)
There are many ATMs, including:
HDFC
HSBC
Standard Chartered
