Chennai, the industrial capital of Tamil Nadu in southern India, is where the history of British settlement in India has ancient roots. This has resulted in some splendidly monumental municipal buildings and a number of broad avenues and gardens.
But Chennai's history stretches way beyond the British presence, with its resourceful citizens actively engaging in trade with the Chinese, Romans, Greeks and others more than 2,000 years ago.
Still retaining much of its traditional charm, this bustling city, formerly called Madras, provides a captivating insight into southern heritage. Chennai is proud of its Tamil culture and in many ways is still traditionally conservative, lacking the cosmopolitan flavour (and nightlife) of Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Delhi.
Music, dance and many other art forms from south India are widespread in Chennai and the Tamil film industry is huge. Religious heritage has left its mark with old churches, ancient temples and of course the wonderful shore temple of Mamallapuram, under two hours' drive away.
Chennai has grown dramatically over the past few decades and has enjoyed marked economic growth in recent years, thanks mainly to a booming IT industry. Today, Chennai sprawls out in all directions over the flat land along the coast and up the river valley and feels somewhat uncentred and chaotic as new shopping malls and modern skyrises spring up, residential districts spread, and squatter settlements are scattered throughout.
Although the devastating tsunami of 2004 hit Tamil Nadu and affected some of the settlements on the beach in the city, most areas have now been repaired.
How to get to Chennai Madras
Travel by road
Summary:
Because of vast distances, variable road conditions and hair-raising driving, it is advisable to travel long distances by air or train rather than road. Bus journeys can be uncomfortable and tough on the constitution, although a journey of several hours is certainly bearable in a decent air-conditioned coach.
It is unwise to attempt to self-drive if you haven't done it before in a big Indian city; hiring a car with a driver from a reputable company is a much better idea. Distances are vast between other major cities (Kolkata, Mumbai etc) so it is more advisable to catch a train or fly and hire a car and driver locally. During the rainy season, road travel out of town can be hazardous.
Coaches:
The government bus company operates from the huge Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus (CMBT), Koyambedu (tel: (044) 2479 4705). Closer destinations include Puducherry (Pondicherry) (4 hours) and Mamallapuram (2 hours). There are also private bus companies operating opposite Egmore train station.
Travel by rail
Services:
Travelling by train is one of the delights in India, although for longer trips it is advisable to go first-class and/or air conditioned. You can book tickets at major hotels and some travel agents (these invariably attract a booking fee), or directly from the central computerised booking office at Train Reservation Complex, in Central Station. Tourists can get tickets via the tourist quota; it can get crowded so start queuing early.
Chennai has two main stations: Central Station (reservations line: 1361) is the arrival and departure point for most major destinations in the country. Approximately 1km (0.6 miles) east is Egmore Station, dealing mainly with routes in the southern regions of Tamil Nadu and Kerala.
Operators:
Trains are run by Indian Railways (www.indianrail.gov.in). If you plan to make many journeys, buy a copy of Trains at a Glance (available at most station news stands and some city bookshops) and also see www.seat61.com/India.htm for general information on train travel in the country. The Indrail pass, available in many countries, gives you unlimited travel for a certain period (for further details see www.indianrail.gov.in and click on the Information/International Tourist link).
Connections:
To Mumbai - 26 hours; to Bengaluru - 5 hours; to Kolkata - 28 hours; to Delhi - 33 hours; to Madurai - 8 hours; to Trichy - 6 hours.
Car Hire in Chennai (madras)
Car hire:
Hiring a car with a driver is possible at the airport and from most hotels; many major international companies are represented. Avis (tel: (044) 234 4747 or 234 0113; www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: (044) 2235 3113; www.hertz.com) are reliable options. Local car hire companies include Praveenn Tours and Travels (tel: (044) 2485 2034; www.praveenntravels.com), City Cabs (tel: (044) 2815 7775) and Express Travel Corporation (ETC) (tel: (044) 2827 2279; www.expresstravelcorp.com).
Rates differ depending on quality of the vehicle and whether you opt for air conditioning or not. It is strongly recommended that you do not try to drive yourself - not only is it difficult to deal with the vagaries of Indian driving, but the cost of the insurance will probably outweigh the cost of a driver.
Rates differ depending on quality of the vehicle and whether you opt for air conditioning or not. It is strongly recommended that you do not try to drive yourself - not only is it difficult to deal with the vagaries of Indian driving, but the cost of the insurance will probably outweigh the cost of a driver.
Chennai Madras Meenambakkam International Airport
Airport Code:
MAA Airport news:
A new 'green field' airport is planned for Chennai, with possible opening in 2015, to cope with demand for increased capacity.
Here you'll find essential information on Chennai Madras (Meenambakkam) International Airport, India, including contact details, airport transfer facts, details of airport facilities, and how to get there.
Information:
Information desks are available in both terminals.
Number of terminals:
2
Transfer between terminals:
The two terminals are next to each other within the main terminal building complex.
Driving directions:
It is relatively easy to drive from the city to the airport or the other way. Take the GST Road leading southwest from the city or northeast from the airport and then just follow the signs.
Location:
The airport is located at Tirisulam, 19km (11.5 miles) south of Chennai.
Time zone:
GMT + 5.5
Things to do in Chennai (Madras)
Chennai Madras Nightlife
Chennai's nightlife scene is curbed by laws that prohibit bars and nightclubs operating beyond midnight, although some do stay open a little longer. Shame, as there are some fabulous venues around, although a fraction of the number seen in Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Delhi. Of the few decent bars and clubs, most are in the 5-star hotels. Many nightclubs have a cover charge (usually only on weekends), a smart-dress codeand may only allow couples (ie not single males).
Most national newspapers have a Chennai edition, including the Hindu, Indian Express and Times of India, with a supplement dedicated to local news and listings. CityInfo is a fortnightly What's On guide with basic listings, available at tourist offices and some hotels. Hallo Madras is a monthly city guide.
Most national newspapers have a Chennai edition, including the Hindu, Indian Express and Times of India, with a supplement dedicated to local news and listings. CityInfo is a fortnightly What's On guide with basic listings, available at tourist offices and some hotels. Hallo Madras is a monthly city guide.
Chennai (Madras) Sightseeing
Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary
The Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, 85km (53 miles) southwest of Chennai, is a sensational place to appreciate some local environment - this is one of the largest bird sanctuaries in India; a marshy 30-hectare (74-acre) park with a lake, visited by an estimated 100,000 migratory birds annually. The best time to visit is between November and February. Species include herons, storks, spoonbills, pelicans and white ibis.
Kanchipuram
This holy city 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai is one of Hinduism's seven most sacred and it has been a pilgrimage place for centuries. It now contains over 50 temples, each one with different characteristics: Ekambaresvara Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is one you shouldn't miss, with its exquisitely carved Thousand Pillar Hall (although it has fewer than 1,000 pillars today). Kanchipuram has also been famous for its weavers for the last four centuries.
Puducherry (Pondicherry)
A former French trading station 189km (117 miles) south of Chennai, easygoing Pondi is a pleasant seaside town with broad boulevards and some charming hotels and restaurants. It is home to the famous Sri Aurobindo Ashram, founded in 1926, which draws visitors from throughout the world. It also has the French Institute of Pondicherry, opened in 1955 for the study of Indian culture, and a number of interesting French-influenced churches. The 19th-century Botanical Gardens are a relaxing place for an unhurried stroll.
Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
One of south India's most famous sights, 50km (31miles) south of Chennai along the East Coast Highway, Mamallapuram is a popular place for a beach holiday with picturesque beaches and a good selection of places to stay. Mamallapuram has a superb collection of ancient shore temples that have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is still a renowned centre of stone carving and artisans are seen and heard chipping away.
Highlights include: the Shore Temple, Arjuna's Penance, one of the largest bas-reliefs in the world, the five monolithic stone shrines of Panch Pandava Rathas, and Mahishmardini Cave, a triple-celled temple with a mandapam in front.
Highlights include: the Shore Temple, Arjuna's Penance, one of the largest bas-reliefs in the world, the five monolithic stone shrines of Panch Pandava Rathas, and Mahishmardini Cave, a triple-celled temple with a mandapam in front.
Little Mount Church
This is a tiny cave where St Thomas is believed to have lived when he came to India around AD58, and known locally as Chinnamalai. It was from here that he leapt out of a small hole to escape his assailants. The cave is entered via the Portuguese church built in 1551, which contains relics including an old stone cross which St Thomas is said to have clutched while dying.
St Andrews Church
Completed in 1821 in a classical style, this church has an impressive blue dome decorated with gold stars. There are excellent views from the top. Described in British days as 'the noblest edifice in Hindustan', its facade resembles St Martin-in-the-Fields in London.
Shopping in Chennai Madras
Shopping centres:
Spencer Plaza, Anna Salai, is a massive mall with everything from clothes, cosmetics and shoes to household items, CDs, and souvenirs. On the second floor, Fabindia offers top quality handmade textiles (from garments to cushion covers) with lovely contemporary designs. There are government emporia from many states along Anna Salai.
Key Areas:
George Town is the wholesale area of Chennai, where you can find everything from paper and textiles to cosmetics and decorations. The streets are an atmospheric place to wander around. If searching for souvenirs, the Victoria Technical Institute, 765 Anna Salai, a government outlet promoting high-quality Indian handicrafts (with artists receiving a share of the profits), has a wide range of fixed price arts and crafts. SIPA'S Craftlink, 70 Kodambakkan High Road, Nungambakkam, is an artisan's collective and fair trade craft shop.
The small stalls and shops lining Sir Thyagaraya Nagar Road, known as Pondy Bazaar, have an array of great fabrics, cheap clothes and jewellery, plus the divine smell of jasmine from the colourful flower stalls. For quality fabric including raw and hand-spun silks, Nalli Silks , 9 Nageswaran Road, is recommended. Higginbothams, 814 Anna Salai, is an institution, a huge bookshop with a vast selection of English-language titles.
The small stalls and shops lining Sir Thyagaraya Nagar Road, known as Pondy Bazaar, have an array of great fabrics, cheap clothes and jewellery, plus the divine smell of jasmine from the colourful flower stalls. For quality fabric including raw and hand-spun silks, Nalli Silks , 9 Nageswaran Road, is recommended. Higginbothams, 814 Anna Salai, is an institution, a huge bookshop with a vast selection of English-language titles.
Opening times:
Shops and bazaars opening times vary, but most open daily from around 0900-1030 until 2000-2100 (some places close on Sunday).
Chennai Madras Nightlife
Chennai's nightlife scene is curbed by laws that prohibit bars and nightclubs operating beyond midnight, although some do stay open a little longer. Shame, as there are some fabulous venues around, although a fraction of the number seen in Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Delhi. Of the few decent bars and clubs, most are in the 5-star hotels. Many nightclubs have a cover charge (usually only on weekends), a smart-dress codeand may only allow couples (ie not single males).
Most national newspapers have a Chennai edition, including the Hindu, Indian Express and Times of India, with a supplement dedicated to local news and listings. CityInfo is a fortnightly What's On guide with basic listings, available at tourist offices and some hotels. Hallo Madras is a monthly city guide.
Eating out in Chennai is a food-lover's dream, with everything from classy hotel restaurants to cheap eateries to suit every budget. The restaurants in Chennai below are listed alphabetically in three different pricing categories:
Most national newspapers have a Chennai edition, including the Hindu, Indian Express and Times of India, with a supplement dedicated to local news and listings. CityInfo is a fortnightly What's On guide with basic listings, available at tourist offices and some hotels. Hallo Madras is a monthly city guide.
